Blog Archives

Summer is coming…exfoliation made simple.

As part of a project that I have been working on for some months now, where I have experts in their respective fields speak to you about skin care, we are continuing our discussion on exfoliation and today I am so honored to have weighing on the subject one of our own family members, Aisha Massac, owner of Mankind Grooming For Men. She is also a Licensed Estheticians & Professional Makeup Artist based in Washington, DC. So sit back and enjoy the read on exfoliation 🙂 and Thank you Aisha Massac!

Exfoliation made simple

 

What is exfoliation? Exfoliation is the removal of surface dead skin cells, with the ultimate goal being to clear debris and free the retired cells to allow for better absorption, circulation, and brighten dull skin by promoting skin renewal. 

 

These dead skin cells, left on the surface, slow down healthy cell renewal, increase the depth of wrinkles and create a dull, sluggish appearance. The more you effectively exfoliate, the younger the skin looks and the better your skin care products can penetrate the skin.

 

However, too much exfoliation can cause redness and skin sensitivity. You should exfoliate no more than three days per week, as to not cause irritation or sensitive skin. If you already have sensitive skin as well as skin that easily hyperpigments, I would not recommend exfoliating since it can make your skin more sensitive and hurt your skin barrier. If you just HAVE to exfoliate (even outside of my recommendation), use an emollient based exfoliant and ONLY once a week; a light AHA would be a great option being that it’s moisturizing. A great option would be Dr. Perricone’s Advanced Face Firming Activator.

There are two types of exfoliation methods:

PHYSICAL

The most common form of exfoliation is physical exfoliation, which is mechanically removing superficial layers of the skin. This can be done with a face loofah, brush, washcloth, or with exfoliating cleansers. Mechanical exfoliators that utilize abrasive agents with sharp edges actually scrape and cut the skin. Abrasive agents such as apricot seeds (St. Ives being the most popular), granulated peach kernels, corn cob, silica, walnut shells and sugar instituted a major following in the ‘80s, followed by brushes, sponges, and loofahs. These all resulted in pulled, torn, stretched, abraded and traumatized skin that was covered with microlesions. Microlesions can lead to bacterial invasion, further leading to acne and/or wrinkles. Better options for physical or mechanical exfoliation are the Clarisonic skin brush and/or home microdermabrasion device (using aluminum oxide crystals). The Clarisonic has different skin brushes for different types of skin (Acne, Sensitive, Normal), and it allows you to adjust intensity for light or deep cleansing, and to avoid irritation. Other than the clarisonic, a mild exfoliating scrub is a great way to go to get a refreshed and clean look to the skin. An option for a more mild mechanical exfoliant would be almond meal, corn meal, or even baking soda, which can be added to your cleanser.

073A5908

A gentle and mild exfoliant, like corn meal, can be found in itiba’s body polishes. Great for getting your skin ready for summer!

  A professional mechanical exfoliant favorite of mine is the Dermalogica’s Daily Microfoliant, which uses a rice-based enzyme powder, that when mixed with water, activates the papain and salicylic acid. 

CHEMICAL

Chemical exfoliation, in essence, dissolves the “glue” that binds the dead skin cells together. Chemical exfoliation involves applying products containing a form of alpha hydroxy acid and/or beta hydroxy acid that dissolve this “glue” around the skin cells, hastening the shedding of several layers of the epidermis. Estheticians throughout the world have long preferred enzymes for exfoliation such as pineapple, papaya and pumpkin, typically found in a mask form, to exfoliate the skin. These enzymes are natural forms of AHAs. My favorite type of chemical exfoliation is enzyme exfoliating products over the AHA’s and BHA’s. I absolutely love June Jacobs Perfect Pumpkin Peeling Enzyme Masque. I also love Jan Marini’s SkinZyme Papaya Mask. Other popular chemical exfoliation methods, found in the skincare world are retinoids. Retinoids are in the same family of Vitamin A and is used to treat some forms of acne, aging, and even psoriasis. Although retinoids can cause flaking, they don’t typically cause dryness – this flaking is the sloughing off of dead cells. Retinoids are also known to cause irritation or sensitivity and must at all times be used with caution in sunlight. *Note: look for retinoids that are encapsulated.Regular use of alpha- or beta- hydroxy products or clay-based masks is of utmost importance to help reduce breakouts and remove dead skin buildup that could clog pores. These are among the most effective exfoliating ingredients. Because AHAs are water-soluble, they can penetrate deeper into the skin’s surface to lift the dead cells. However, caution must be given as they may irritate sensitive skin if used in too high a concentration. On the other hand, BHA (or salicylic acid) is fat-soluble, and doesn’t penetrate below the epidermis. 

**Note: If you have sensitive skin or a skin condition, such as rosacea, eczema, seborrhea, or dermatitis, you may want to consult your doctor or dermatologist to find the most effective exfoliating method for your skin type.

**Note: Do NOT use products that contain more than one of the above in one product

To exfoliate: 

1. Wash your face

2. Take medium to large amount of exfoliant (about the size of a dime to a nickel) and gently apply to damp skin. 

3. Massage the exfoliant over your skin. Never press into your skin – you are not sanding wood! Avoid your eye area, as this is a delicate area.

4. Use a washcloth or damp cloth to wipe clean with warm water

5. Apply your moisturizers and serums. 

 

Written By: Aisha Massac, Licensed Esthetician & Professional Makeup Artist based in Washington, DC

Advertisements

Green Papaya and you ;-)

Did you know that Papaya, green Papaya that is, is great for the skin?

2016-01-27 17.42.19

Organically grown papaya just picked

Papaya (carica papaya) is a wonderful fruit that is great when ripe as a sweet treat or green to be used in stews. But the papaya is a wonderful fruit that has many beneficial properties. The papain in papaya is found in its highest concentrations when the fruit is green. Here is where the wonders of the fruit abound! The papain found in papaya has many attributes for skin care such as a treatment for ringworms, psoriasis, used as a poultice to help aid with wounds, burns and stings. The papain is also a great at helping to exfoliate the skin.

So it is with this in mind that I often go back to nature to find other ways of creating great skin care products. I decided to revive a very popular product, Island Cream and do a 2016 version. Of course, the main ingredient in this particular product is the green papaya juice. This product is great for helping to exfoliate the skin and smoothing rough, dry patches found on the elbows and heels.

What is papain? “Papain is an enzyme that is found in green papaya (papaya that is not quite ripe). It has been used in traditional medicine for thousands of years because of its many health benefits which include treating wounds and cuts, stings and burns and internal illnesses.” Read More Papaya is not one of my favorite fruits to eat, but for skincare, it is a powerhouse. I respect it as much as I respect Turmeric for skincare and overall holistic care. So it was with that that I began using the juice from the Green Papaya in rich, decadent butters and creams for myself and my customers. A few days ago I decided to take another look at a recipe I had created and made many, many years ago. You can see how I juiced the papaya on my Instagram (@itibabeauty) page by clicking here.

At the end of the pictorial tutorial on “How to Juice a Green Papaya” you see the end result was the whipped body butter. This product, or any product made with Papaya enzymes, is a great way to slough away hard to remove, dry skin. And it leaves you feeling so smooth! I am still refining the recipe and considering a re-launch of a new and improved version of this cream.

Charlotte

IMG_2232744619754447

This past weekend marked the ninth annual Central Intercollegiate Athletic Association (CIAA) studded events college basketball games at Time Warner Cable Arena, boasted celebrities from Tamar Braxton, Ginuwine and Kevin Hart to the Virgin Islands’ very own Benny Demus, Verse Simmonds and us!

Sip N Style CIAA Beauty Weekend 2014

We were the official sponsors of the Sip N Style full service pop up styling suite, alongside 2 Sisters Cosmetics. From February 27 – March 1, 2014, itiba, LLC’s Body Polishes were used to administer on site beauty and spa treatments to the various clients that visited the beauty suite by celeb stylist and author Tye Coe, celeb MUA Kristen Moss, and nail technician Lisa Danielle. It was a great event in support of young athletes from HBCUs around the country. 2014 is truly shaping up to be an awesome year for itiba, LLC!